Care for Vegetable-Tanned Leather

Vegetable-tanned leather is a type of natural leather treated with plant-based tannins (such as tannic acid), known for its durability, eco-friendliness, and unique ability to naturally change over time with use. However, due to its natural properties, vegetable-tanned leather requires special care to maintain its appearance and extend its lifespan. Many crafters and customers often ask how to clean or better maintain vegetable-tanned leather products, so here I share some tips. It is important to mention that aside from regular care and cleaning methods, it's even more crucial to adopt the right mindset and accept the natural changes vegetable-tanned leather undergoes with time and use.

Daily Cleaning of Vegetable-Tanned Leather

1. Dust
   Anything that is left for a while will collect dust, and vegetable-tanned leather is no exception. In this case, simply use a soft cloth or a feather duster to gently remove the dust from the surface. If the leather has accumulated dust from being stored for a long time, you can also use a soft bristle brush—preferably a horsehair brush designed for leather—but any soft brush will do. If you don’t have a brush, you can lightly tap the leather with a dry towel (don’t wipe). Avoid using your hands directly to wipe, as they may have sweat or oils that mix with dust, embedding it into the leather’s pores, making it harder to clean. Even if you’re not using the leather product, it's best to clean off any dust immediately, as it can combine with moisture in the air and seep into the leather, potentially causing mold or making cleaning much harder.

2. Dust-like Stains
   If there are dust-like stains or unknown marks, you can try gently rubbing them with a soft eraser—be sure to use a soft one, not a hard one. Rub gently and observe if the stain improves. If it does, you can continue to rub the stain out carefully, but avoid aggressive scrubbing. If the stain remains, don’t worry too much. If it’s not unbearable and you feel it will fade with time, just leave it. If you want to try further cleaning, you could use a lemon: cut a small piece, exposing the pulp, and gently rub it on the stain. If effective, the stain should disappear quickly. You can also squeeze out some lemon juice and use a cotton cloth or cotton ball to apply it. If this doesn’t work, it’s best to stop and accept the leather’s natural aging process.

3. Water Stains
   There are three possible scenarios:

   • Slight water marks, such as fingerprints after washing hands or wiping them without drying them fully, will usually fade as the leather dries, so no treatment is needed.
   • More significant water stains, like water spills on the leather, should be dealt with immediately by dampening a clean cotton cloth and gently rubbing the edges of the stain to blend it with the dry areas. Gradually, the water mark should become less noticeable. If the stain is large or severe, you may need to apply water to a larger area and then let the leather air dry in a cool, well-ventilated place. With proper treatment, you should be satisfied with the result. However, this step requires experience, so act quickly.
   • Dry water stains, where the water mark has already dried, will have darker edges compared to the surrounding areas. In this case, it’s best to accept the stain, as it’s a natural part of the leather’s aging process.

4. Oil Stains
   If vegetable-tanned leather gets oil stains, sprinkle a small amount of cornstarch or talcum powder over the stain. Leave it for a few hours to absorb the oil, then brush it off. For stubborn oil stains, use a special leather cleaner for vegetable-tanned leather.

5. Special Issues

   • Mold: Lightly wipe mold spots with a cotton cloth soaked in 75% medical alcohol, then let it dry and apply some leather conditioner. Severe mold requires professional care.
   • Hardening: Apply small amounts of oil multiple times, then wrap the leather in plastic wrap overnight to soften it.
   • Dye Stains: Use a specific leather deglazer (like Fiebing's Deglazer) for spot treatment, though this may affect the leather’s original patina.

6. Deep Cleaning
   Many people may think leather soap works well for cleaning, but I wouldn’t recommend using it too casually. It’s better to wait until the leather is visibly dirty and you’re unable to accept its state. You can use professional leather soap or a mild shower gel. However, it often won’t completely clean the stains, but it will leave the water quite dirty. When washing, avoid using hard brushes (such as those used for washing clothes) unless you want a distressed effect. After cleaning, air dry the leather, but never place it in direct sunlight. Leather has a unique characteristic—it’s not afraid of heat or water, but both together can "cook" it, making it dry and hard. Once dry, apply leather care oil to nourish it. If done correctly, you’ll likely be satisfied with the results, but the texture will be somewhat stiffer and less shiny than before. However, with continued use, the texture should gradually recover.

Daily Maintenance of Vegetable-Tanned Leather

Choosing the right tools can help you better maintain your vegetable-tanned leather products. Here are some recommended tools:

• Cleaning: Saphir leather cleaner, German Erdal leather eraser
• Conditioning: Huberd's Shoe Grease (a blend of mink oil and beeswax), Obenauf's LP (waterproof and crack-resistant)
• Tools: Horsehair brush, microfiber cloth, pig bristle brush (for cleaning seams)

1. Choosing Oil
   For beginners, it’s recommended to use a natural oil with simple ingredients. Liquid saddle soap or clear leather gloss will speed up the color change, while beeswax will increase water resistance.

2. De-wrinkle and Smooth
   Use a horn comb (commonly used in gua sha) to smooth out wrinkles on vegetable-tanned leather. This can help reduce wrinkles and smooth the surface. Raw leather may show small imperfections or natural texture due to its untreated state, but with use, these details can add to the charm of the leather.

3. Polishing
   For new vegetable-tanned leather products, first, polish with a clean cloth, then apply mink oil. You can rub a small amount of mink oil directly with your fingers for even application, which helps moisturize and prevent cracking. Afterward, place the leather product in the sunlight for a "sunbath." The mink oil acts as a natural protective barrier, preventing damage from high temperatures, though it's best to avoid harsh midday sunlight. Gentle sunlight helps the oil absorb into the surface better. Sunlight also helps release the plant tannins in the leather, which can cause color changes, but mink oil can counteract this.

4. Using Leather to Remove Face Oil
   Vegetable-tanned leather, with its vintage appeal, can absorb the oils from your skin, improving its texture and giving it a unique patina over time. Just be sure your face is clean so that only natural skin oils are absorbed.

5. Regular Maintenance

   • Apply a small amount of oil to the leather surface with a soft cloth or your fingers.
   • Let it sit for 15 minutes to absorb, then wipe off excess oil with a dry cloth.
   • Let it dry in a cool, shaded place for 24 hours, ensuring it’s fully dry before use.

6. Sun and Moisture Protection
   Avoid exposing vegetable-tanned leather products to direct sunlight, especially in high-temperature environments. Prolonged exposure to sunlight will lighten the leather and may cause it to crack. Similarly, avoid placing leather near heat sources like radiators. Leather is highly absorbent, so keep it away from humid environments to prevent mold growth. Store leather in a well-ventilated place, and consider using charcoal bags or silica gel packs to keep moisture at bay.

7. Long-Term Storage
   Ensure the storage environment is well-ventilated and not overly humid or sealed. It’s best to store vegetable-tanned leather in an opaque cotton bag to avoid prolonged exposure to air, which could cause mold. Periodically check the leather and reapply conditioning oil to prevent drying out. Avoid placing heavy objects on the leather to prevent distortion. Store the leather product in a suitable box or bag to maintain its shape.

Embracing the Natural Changes of Vegetable-Tanned Leather

A distinctive feature of vegetable-tanned leather is that it will naturally change color and develop a unique patina over time. This is part of its aging process and many people find it enhances the leather’s charm. While this change is inevitable, proper care can help the leather age beautifully and showcase its individual character.

• Accepting Color Changes: Vegetable-tanned leather will gradually change color as it interacts with different environments (such as sunlight, sweat, and oils). This is a natural process, and to maintain an even color, it’s recommended to regularly use conditioning oils and avoid excessive exposure to water.
• Protecting During Use: When using vegetable-tanned leather products, try to avoid direct contact with colored substances like ink, makeup, or stains, as these can leave difficult-to-remove marks on the leather.

Restoration and Repair

If vegetable-tanned leather develops minor scratches or wear, you can gently treat it with leather restoration oil or conditioning wax. For more significant damage, it’s advisable to seek professional leather repair services to restore the leather’s texture and appearance.

Conclusion

Vegetable-tanned leather, as a natural, eco-friendly, and durable material, requires